In France, extended producer responsibility (EPR) is a key policy for managing and reducing consumer waste. It makes producers and sellers responsible for recycling their products and packaging when they are no longer needed. The French government is urging fashion brands to use more sustainable processes, display environmental labels and/or use recycled materials. Bonuses will be given to encourage these improvements.
To this end, Refashion, the textile industry eco-organisation, has been created to oversee waste prevention and end-of-life management of these items for companies that place them on the market. Refashion helps the fashion industry move towards a circular economy. It works with marketers, collection and sorting operators, local and public authorities, project developers, and the public.
Refashion is a private non-profit company approved by the French public authorities and financed by the eco-contribution paid by its members.
Refashion has implemented a bonus system to encourage and reward virtuous eco-design initiatives, known as eco-modulation.
The purpose of this system is to reward products with a minimized environmental impact. In accordance with Refashion's regulatory approval specifications, the following types of eco-modulation apply to products placed on the market since 1 January 2023:
1. Bonus for product durability
This bonus awards the physical durability of products, according to criteria defined by product type and detailed in the 2024 eco-modulations guide.
Refashion has defined the requirements for durability assessment to qualify for Refashion eco-modulations for
- Knitted Clothing
- Woven Clothing
- Household Linen: table, bed and bath linen
- Footwear
Example of the requirements for knitted clothing: t-shirt
2. Bonus for obtaining certain environmental certifications
As from 1 January 2023, finished products certified according to one or several of the following 8 labels, indicated in the approval specifications, can benefit from the "Certification" bonus: Ecocert® ERTS Level 2, OEKO-TEX® Made in Green, Bluesign®, Fairtrade® Textile, European Ecolabel, Demeter®, GOTS and Bioré®.
In the case where a style has been certified by several eligible labels, the bonus is granted within the limit of a single certification. Thereby, the "environmental certification" bonuses cannot be cumulated for the same style.
3. Bonus for the incorporation of recycled raw materials
The bonus for incorporating raw recycled materials will be granted if:
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The products incorporate:
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Raw materials from the recycling of post-consumer CHF textile waste collected or funded by an approved producer responsibility organisation for CHF textile management
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Recycled raw materials coming from open loop recycling of waste collected or funded by an approved producer responsibility organisation excluding food-grade plastic resint
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The recycled material from this waste has been produced according to the local proximity criteria in the specifications and carried out in facilities adhering to measures that are equivalent to those for ICPE classified facilities (French facilities classified for environmental protection).